Rising temperatures force Alpine guides to adapt

Rising temperatures are rapidly changing the Alps, forcing mountain guides to master more than climbing, SRF reports.

At the Lagalb valley station in the Upper Engadine, aspiring mountain guides were taking their final exams while a representative of the Swiss Mountain Guides Association moved through the steep terrain on crutches with an injured foot.

As permafrost thaws, rocks become unstable and scree fields increasingly replace glaciers. Routes that were once accessible can suddenly become impassable, while weather conditions can change quickly.

These changes are reflected in the training. Candidates must pass examinations in both ice and rock. They are tested on how to lead guests on a short rope through steep terrain without triggering rockfall, an issue that caused repeated problems on the Matterhorn this summer.

The rope must not drag loosely across the ground, where it could dislodge rocks. Guides must choose footholds and handholds carefully and smoothly while remaining in constant contact with their guests, deciding when someone may follow, where they must wait and when they need additional protection.

“We have to adapt our techniques to the terrain more quickly,” instructor Wendelin Schuler said.

Mountain guiding also requires psychological skill. When international guests arrive in Switzerland determined to climb the Matterhorn but conditions make the ascent impossible, guides must offer alternatives. “If the Matterhorn is not possible, there is still the Breithorn traverse,” Schuler said.

Guides must also remain calm enough to assess the situation around them, said trainee Levin Schild. They are responsible for human lives and must understand what frightens their guests and where their strengths lie. In difficult situations, they must be prepared to stop an outing, even against the guests’ wishes.

As the Alps continue to crumble, guides must adapt to the weather, the conditions, their guests and their own limits.