Climbers establish 33-pitch route on Eiger north face

Swiss climber Roger Schaeli and British climber Fay Manners have established a new 900-metre rock route on the Eiger’s north face, SRF reports. Called Solar Eclipse, the route comprises 33 pitches and is considered one of the most demanding rock routes on the mountain.

The route runs up the right-hand section of the Eiger, known as the Tschechenpfeiler. The pair named it after the solar eclipse they witnessed on the mountain.

During July and August, Schaeli and Manners spent 13 days living in a tent on the vast north face. Supported by two mountain guides, they climbed into the face each day to establish the route. Their water and food supplies had to be replenished every four days.

Their aim was to drill as few fixed bolts into the rock as possible. The climber leading the pitch had to choose a line with repeated cracks where mobile protection devices could be placed to secure themselves in the rock.

“What is fascinating about a new route is that you do not know what awaits you,” Schaeli said. “Recognising new lines and seeing what fits together and what is beautiful is a creative approach to mountaineering.” Solar Eclipse is the fourth route he has helped create on the Eiger.

The Eiger’s north face was once covered with ice and snow in summer. The classic Heckmair Route, established in 1938, therefore passes through these sections in the central part of the face. It is no longer climbed there in summer and is now used only in winter. Schaeli, who has climbed on the Eiger 56 times, said the mountain is free of snow and ice for two-thirds of the year.

Today, the western section of the Eiger’s north face is home to around 15 difficult climbing routes. Solar Eclipse is technically demanding and requires extensive alpine experience.